Hello Again, Vegas!
Vegas Redux
It’s been a minute since I’ve been to Las Vegas. Over fifteen years to be honest. The last time I went, The Palms’ no-theme vibes were all the rage. The Maloof Brothers reigned, culinary gurus were just creeping onto the scene, the pool party world was about to make a huge splash, and Celine Dion was about to start her historical residency. With all due respect to Sin City, it’s never been my bag. The fake air in casino annoys my sinuses, the sheer amount of money being spent freaks me out, and this idea that a giant light bulb in the desert full of people could quite literally be shut off at any moment is absolutely terrifying. Plus, I’m not great at math on the fly, so gambling isn’t my preferred activity.
But there I was, on the way through the Southwest and Vegas is the only logical pit stop from the Bay Area. Like any good traveler, I did my research to find some local attractions that fit my interests; art, culture, food, and history. I was pleasantly surprised by what I found and let me tell you, forty hours in Vegas may feel like an eternity, but these spots are worth the trip.
The Neon Museum
The Neon Museum is truly something special. Nestled in a rather dodgy area north of Downtown, it houses some of the area’s most iconic signage from yesteryear that tells stories of a Wild West fraught with lightning-fast growth, racism, big dreams, and great signage.
The real star of the Neon Museum is its employees. As you walk around, they’re happy to answer questions about the signs, but are god damned treasure troves when it comes to giving a 360 story about the signs; from the artistic and commercial intention to the culture surrounding the place of business it represented.
If the employees are a treasure trove, Alejandra is the crown jewel of this place. She was bursting with information when we asked her questions about some of the signs. While many of the signs pander to stereotypical cultural iconography, The Red Barn’s place in the museum is a win for the LGBTQIA+ community’s history and really shows the museum’s celebration of inclusion and celebrating an otherwise marginalized history. The Red Barn was an antique store with a bar in the back where, as Alejandra described, was the only place in Vegas where gay men could get a drink without the risk of being outed, harassed, or beaten up. Alejandra reminded us that Vegas was never known as a bastion for inclusion Sammy Davis Jr. had a separate dressing room from his white counterparts into the early 1970s.
Without question, the Neon Museum is a must-see in Vegas regardless of how much time you have. The prices are substantially different between day and night and if I were to do it again, I would do the nighttime, but no complaints about our day visit.
The Golden Steer
As mentioned before, Vegas became a major culinary destination over the past ten years. From classic icons like José Andrés and Bobby Flay to hipster darlings Roy Choi and David Chang, there is a bevy of celebrated chefs with restaurants in Vegas. Long story short, I wanted a taste of Old Vegas and I headed to the Golden Steer. Rat Pack vibes abound in the dark leather, tufted banquettes, and the strong Manhattan I had paired well with the video poker I played on the bar before we were seated. I won $45 and knew the night would only get better.
The Golden Steer is the kind of old school restaurant where the waiters appear that they were born and will most likely die here and I mean that in the most sincere way. Tableside Caesar salad, hearty steaks, and potato sides done any which way, but boring; the menu is a total throwback to classic American Steakhouses and though the bill may not be inexpensive, it’s worth it.
Planet 13
Cannabis became legal to purchase in Nevada in 2016 and dispensaries were finally open in 2017. I did a little research before we got to Vegas about where to shop and landed on Reef simply because Wiz Kalifa was rumored to be part owner and his song “Young, Wild, and Free” is one of my favorites. After walking the strip for a bit and taking in some of the more impressive architectural feats of recent years, we jumped in a cab directing the driver to Reef.
Our driver turned around and asked, “Do you guys want to go to the best dispensary in the world?!?” with the excitement of a circus sideshow salesman luring us into the greatest thing we’ve never seen. Of course, we answered yes and were off!
Planet 13 Superstore and Entertainment Center looks more like a flossy tech start-up from the outside than a place where you buy weed products. Upon entering, I still felt like I was in some sort of curated experience amongst the laser shows, lighted floors and overall futuristic grandeur of the interior, but I was psyched. So psyched that when I overheard a budtender telling someone they sold edibles made by a James Beard award-winning chef (Mindy’s Edibles), I blindly added them to our cart. Since Vegas’ laws about smoking in public and in casinos are pretty tough, we just bought edibles and were on our way. Taxes weren’t as hefty as California taxes on cannabis, but prices are definitely tourist prices.
My husband is a solid craps player. Kudos for him for stretching the dollar in Vegas!
Because the Planet 13 parking lot serves as holding lot for Lyft and Uber drivers, we jumped back in with our excited driver who was so proud we got to experience “the best dispensary in the world.” Was it impressive? Absolutely. Was it the best in the world? I don’t think I’m qualified to say since I’ve only been to dispensaries in four states. I’ll follow up once I hit the international scene.
From here, our driver assured us that if we mentioned his name at a nearby strip club, we’d not only get a discounted entry, but he’d get a kickback and that would help him out. We opted to head back to the casino and enjoy our edibles, play some craps (my husband), and lose $60 on a Sex and the City Slot machine.
I don’t need to go back to Vegas anytime soon, but I’m more likely to consider a trip back thanks to non-gambling options and heightened culinary scene. Plus, the edibles were all legit so i was more than happy.